Karachi Food Diaries Day 30 - 31 (Sauteed greens, saag)

January 5 2011 Wednesday, Day 30- My sister left to go back to London today and I am also heading back in two days. Feeling a little gloomy and sad to be at the end of this lovely trip, my mother and I stepped out for lunch. Koel is an eatery tucked away in the leafy, luminous garden of an art gallery. Languid frangipani trees lead into an oasis of south Asian regional food.

           

Appetizer was dhokla; a Gujrati snack made from fermented chickpea flour. Delicate and fluffy topped with a piquant chutney, it hit the spot. For lunch, I ordered a kulcha sandwich. This is a modern take on an old Punjabi specialty. The bread dough is traditionally flavored with onions and potatoes and various herbs and spices and then baked. Mine had a hint of tarragon. For the filling, I went simple and chose tomato, paneer (mild desi cheese) and basil. It came with spicy tomato chutney. Being greedy, I also asked for a side spinach chutney. It was lovely!
I spent my last night in Karachi with some friends. It seemed that I was generating some good culinary karma, my friend had ordered Captain Saleem's crabs!

When in high school or on vacation from college, crabbing used to be a wildly popular Karachi pasttime. We would be rowed out in a rental boat by fishermen, away from the Kaemari harbor and into the moonlit sea, drop line, catch crabs and eat onboard. The food was cooked over an open fire. I have not had more delicious crabs anywhere else. The spice rub recipe was deeply guarded. One of the pioneers in the industry was Captain Saleem. His crabs were the most delectable. As his fame grew, it assumed mythical proportions. Every fisherman would answer to his name when called and no-one really knew what he looked like. The only way you could distinguish the man from the impostors was the higher price he charged, not a very good method. Saleem, ever the smart entrepreneur, decided to distinguish his business and make his mark directly in the homes of his customers. He started a catering business where his team would come and cook in your kitchen. So, that is how I found myself enjoying this treasured delicacy from my childhood in a wonderful and comfortable setting and I can truly attest that the Captain has not lost his magic touch!

January 6 2011 Thursday, Day 31- My last day in Karachi. I am going to miss this precious city and my friends and family immensely. As a befitting farewell meal, I had the loveliest home-cooked lunch. It was simple as can be; khichri, saag (a sauteed spinach and mustard greens dish) and lots of shaljam ka achaar. Heavenly. Eaten in the veranda in the company of my loved ones, I could not have asked for more. Farewell my beautiful, sad city. Till the next time.

Saag is a quintessential and rustic Punjabi dish. It makes the most divine combination with makki ki roti (indian cornbread). Chop up 1 bunch of spinach and 1 bunch mustard greens. Combine with 2 chopped green chillies, 1 tbsp. ground ginger and 1 tbsp. ground garlic. Heat some salted water in a pot (about a cup as the vegetables will also release water), add the greens and cook till wilted. Remove and cool. Roughly mash. In a separate pan, heat oil and add 1/2 tsp. fenugreek seeds. As they sizzle, add one medium chopped onion and fry till golden. To this add, 1 tsp. coriander powder, 1 tsp. cumin powder, 1 tsp. garam masala and 1 tbsp. chickpea flour. Keep frying till nicely mixed. When the oil starts to separate from the spices, add the greens and cook till all the liquid evaporates. Squeeze the juice on 1 lemon, mix and serve.

Karachi Food Diaries Day 27 - 29 (Desi omelette, khagina)

January 2, 2011 Sunday, Day 27
My sister, who ended up spending the night at my cousin's place, arrived at noon and woke me up. She was wired on very little sleep and wanted company. We carried on from the night before over brunch, chatting, laughing and generally being silly. It was a bittersweet throwback to the days before college, marriage or emigration had entered our lives, when we shared a room and our secrets. Brunch was a khagina with paratha. Khagina is a delicious egg and vegetable concoction. In the late afternoon, as my sister took a nap, I accompanied my mother to a majlis. The hisa was heavy taftan and reshmi kabab. Taftan is a thick, bulbous rice flour bread. I ate in moderation and skipped dinner.

January 3, 2011 Monday, Day 28
At night,  my parents had a dinner at their place. The food was catered by a company that my mother has frequently ordered from over the years. I always enjoy their food. On the menu tonight was fried fish, kababs, khatti daal, pulao and mixed vegetable .

 

However, the star of the menu was Kuna. This is a slow-cooked mutton curry originating from a small place in Punjab called Chiniot. The meat is marinated and cooked in an earth-ware pot, buried underground in a pit over coals. The idea is for it to cook in it's own fat for 2-3 days. The result is succulent, falling-off-the-bones, melting-in-your-mouth delicious!

January 4, 2011 Tuesday, Day 29
The food for the day was leftovers from the night before with freshly made daal and turnip sabzi at night; cleansing and mercifully meat-free.

Khagina

This most tasty brunch item is a cross between an omelette and scrambled eggs. It is very easy to make and delicious. Melt 1 tbsp. butter in a non-stick frying pan. Once hot, add a chopped medium onion. Fry till it turns transparent. Add to this, 1 chopped and deseeded medium tomato, a pinch of crushed red pepper, 2 deseeded and chopped green chillies, a handful of chopped coriander leaves and salt and pepper to taste. Cook on medium heat till the tomatoes soften. Add 4 eggs to the pan and scramble to mix in well with the ingredients. Keep breaking the egg mixture and cooking till well browned (the eggs are cooked longer than in western recipes). Remove from heat and serve immediately with roti or paratha.

Karachi Food Diaries Day 21 - 24 (Potato-cauliflower medley, aloo gobi)

December 27, 2010 Monday- Day 21
I have accepted my defeat in the battle against the curry and the meat. There is no getting away from it. It is the way things roll here. I can prepare my own meals but that is not an option in this land of  domestic help. So, I submit and savor. Time enough to revisit the ideal in the new year. Four days left till the end of the year,  social life is whirling and swirling. Parties and dinners all round. Lunch at home is usually a curry, a dry vegetable dish, sometimes kababs, rice and bread with lots of raw vegetables and pickles on the side. Dinner is either out or, if home, then the same. Trying to keep it as simple as possible.

December 28 Tuesday- Day 22
Dinner was at Cafe Flo. It is the most popular French restaurant in the city. I have always enjoyed the food here. The meal started off well with complimentary vol-au-vent for the table. Yummy. Wish I could say the same for the rest of the meal. We ordered carpaccio, crab salad special and escargot as appetizers. The carpaccio was closer to the classic recipe than Okra's but still lacking for me. It was too thin, plastered flat to the plate while the parmesan was too thickly cut. The arugula or rocket as it is called here, was mixed with mushrooms and dressed a little heavily. The lemon wedge was much needed. Also, the plate was cold as if it had been preprepared and refrigerated. Escargot was delicious in their buttery, salty, and garlicky perfection; enjoyed sopping up the excess juice with my bread. The crab salad was not right; watery, not enough meat and actually tasting a little off. For the main entree, I ordered red snapper with shrimp and calamari. The seafood was fresh but overdressed again with too many ingredients. The saving grace in the meal my friend's entree, baked red snapper marinated in soya sauce, ginger and wasabi; delicate and delectable. Live and learn another day!
December 29 Wednesday- Day 23
The night was double-booked; two dinners and lots of drinks. Food was served again at the tail-end of the night at which point my taste buds were comfortably numb and not too discerning.
December 30 Thursday- Day 24
Had lunch at my aunt's place. It was a feast. On the menu was achari bhindi (okra cooked in pickling spices), saag gosht (spinach with meat), daal, khata murghi salan (hot and sour chicken curry), sauteed zucchini, alu gobi and shrimp biryani, beans and hot roti. Delicious. Tomorrow is New Year's Eve. I will be back with a final recap as soon as I can emerge from my indulgent haze. Wishing all an early safe and happy new year!

Alu Gobi

This is a colorful, nutritious vegetable delight. It a combination of potato and cauliflower with either peas or carrots. This recipe is with carrots. Add 1/2 cup oil to a preheated pan and then1 tsp. cumin, 1 tsp. black mustard seeds and 1/2 tsp. minced garlic. When they start to sizzle, add 1 cup cauliflower (florets separated and cut up), 1 cup carrots (diced) and 1 medium potato (cubed). Season well with salt and black, saute uncovered for a little while, add a little water and cover to cook in the steam. When vegetables are cooked half way, approx. 15-20 mins, I add 1/2 a cup of balsamic vinegar. This is unusual preparation but does add a delicious piquant flavor to the dish. At this point, add more water if necessary and cover to cook till vegetables are soft. Garnish with a handful of chopped cilantro. Enjoy with daal and rice or roti.

Kabab roll

Absolutely delicious, bursting with freshness and ridiculously simple. The bread in this delectable wrap nicely soaks up the juices from the herbs, meat and vegetables. A little prep time is needed to make this low-calorie, yummy roll and it is worth it!

Ingredients:

1 lb. ground beef, chicken, lamb or turkey meat

1 tsp. fresh thyme

1 tsp. fresh oregano

1 tsp. red chilli powder

1 tbsp. cumin powder

1 tbsp. ground pomegranate seeds (available at South-Asian stores)

salt to taste

1/2 cup olive oil

6 rotis (or flour tortillas)

1 red onion, thinly sliced

1 cucumber, slivered

2 lemons

handful of mint leaves, roughly broken

handful cilantro leaves, roughly broken

1/2 lettuce head (leaves separated and quartered)

2 cups yogurt whipped

3 mild green peppers, thinly sliced also
1 tsp. garam masala 

Serves 4

Recipe:

- combine the red onion slivers and the lemons juice and leave to pickle in the fridge for 4-5 hours.

- combine the first 8 ingredients, press onto a skewer and also let sit in the fridge for the same amount of time.

- pre-heat the oven on lo- broil setting, brush the meat with little olive oil and place in the oven.

- let the meat cook till it is nicely browned on all the sides.

- heat the tortillas on a girdle or directly on the fire as I like to do, for a little less than a minute each side, being careful to not let them burn.

- remove from fire and start layering the various ingredients; few lettuce leaves, slices of cucumber, marinated onions, 3-4 slices of green chillies, one kabab, a tbsp. of yogurt and a sprinkle of mint and cilantro leaves. Finish off with a dusting of pomegranate seeds and garam masala. 

- wrap it up and enjoy.

Lentil stew from Hyderabad - Khatti Daal

A much loved, more elaborate preparation of lentils which is a specialty of Hyderabad. The heart of the tart dish is in the right combination of tamarind and tomatoes. This recipe is for Sana. Enjoy!

1 cup lal masoor daal (red lentils)
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tsp. turmeric powder
1/2 tsp. red chilli powder
2 medium tomatoes, de-skinned and pureed
1 sprig cilantro with stem, chopped
3 green chillies, slit down the middle
4-5 curry leaves
1 tbsp. tamarind


2 tbsp oil
1 tsp. cumin seeds
1 tsp. black mustard seeds
2 clove garlic, thinly sliced
2-3 dry red chilli


Salt to taste

Serves 4 people

Bring the daal to boil in 2 cups of water on high heat.
Reduce heat to low, add the turmeric and chilli powder and cook covered for 15-20 minutes or till the lentils are soft.


Add minced garlic, tomato pulp, tamarind, curry leaves, green chillies, cilantro and salt. Add more water if needed and mash thoroughly with a slotted spoon. Cover and let cook for another 30 minutes or so till the desired consistency is achieved and all the flavors are in harmony.


Separately, heat oil on med-hi heat.
Add cumin seeds, mustard seeds, sliced garlic and the red chillies, latter split in half.
When the garlic starts carmelizing (will take only a few moments), remove from heat and add to daal.
Cover the sizzling dish and smoke the daal for 10-15 seconds.
Uncover the dish and scoop two ladles of daal into the still hot pan and let it sizzle there for a few seconds before adding back to the main dish.

Serve hot with basmati rice.

Simple Lentil Stew - Arhar ki Daal

This daal is a regional comfort food. It has a lingering, nutty taste and is available two ways; plain or oily. I have used the plain one for this recipe. The preparation is minimalistic. It is best when eaten with plain white rice and achaar. 

2 cup Arhar daal (toor or pigeon pea lentil)
2 clove Garlic (minced)
2 tsp. crushed red chilli
4 tbsp oil
2 clove Garlic (sliced)
4-5 Red chilli (whole)
Salt to taste


Serves 4-5 people

Bring the daal to boil in 2 cups of water on high heat.
Reduce heat to low and cook covered for 15-20 minutes.
Add salt, minced garlic and the crushed red chilli flakes and mash thoroughly with a slotted spoon.
Cover and let cook for another 20 minutes or more till the desired consistency is reached.


Separately, heat oil on med-hi heat.
Add sliced garlic and whole red chillies.
When the garlic starts carmelizing (will take only a few moments), remove from heat and add to daal.
Cover the sizzling dish and smoke the daal for 10-15 seconds.
Uncover the dish and scoop two ladles of daal into the still hot pan and let it absorb the residual tadka before adding back into the dish and covering again.

Easy Roasted Eggplant - Baingan ka Bhurta (hara masala)

This is a simpler version of this dish. It is healthier and requires minimal oil and cooking. The recipe is as follows:

3 medium eggplants

4 scallions, finely chopped

5 sprigs cilantro, finely chopped

2 green chillies, finely chopped

1/2 packet green peas, thawed

1/4 cup olive oil
1 lemon

sea salt to taste

Serves 4

Recipe:                                              

-Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Roast the eggplant till soft; about 35-40 minutes. Remove from oven and singe the skin over an open flame (use a blowtorch if available). Once charred, allow to cool and peel off.

- Squeeze the flesh to drain the juices and slice into equal portions.
- Separately bring water to a boil and blanch the peas.

- Combine scallion, green chillies, lemon juice and eggplant in a blender or food processor till roughly blended. Slowly add the olive oil till the mixture has a smooth, thick consistency. 

- Remove to dish and add peas, chopped cilantro, salt.
- Mix well and serve.  

Roasted Eggplant - Baingan ka Bhurta

3 medium-sized eggplants

1 med. onion, diced

1 tomato, diced

3-4 fresh curry leaves (kari pata)

1 tsp. cumin powder

1 tsp. coriander powder

1/2 tsp. red chillies

1 tsp. tamarind paste (or whole tamarind soaked in water overnight)

4-5 sprigs cilantro

1-2 green chillies

2 tbsp. olive oil 

sea salt to taste
                                                    

Serves 4                                             
                                                      

Preparation:                                               

-Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Roast the eggplant till soft; usually 30- 45 minutes. Remove and singe the skin over an open flame (use a blowtorch if available). Once charred, allow to cool and then simply peel off. Cut up the flesh and mash into a pulp consistency.




Recipe:                                      
- Saute the diced onions till clear. Add the tomatoes and curry leaves (careful as these will sputter). Add all the spices and cook till the tomatoes are soft.
- Once done, add the eggplant and tamarind. Cook on medium heat till any liquid is evaporated; about 15-20 minutes.
- Add the chillies and chopped cilantro and cook for another 2 minutes.
- Remove from heat, garnish with more chopped cilantro and serve with basmati rice.

* There is another, simpler version of this dish that I will post soon.

Tempered Tomato Stew with Eggs- Timatar Kat

A Hyderabadi specialty.  Although, we don't have direct familial connection to the region, there is great love for its tangy, tart and sweet food with the piquant, fragrant spices. Timatar Kat was prepared on special occasion and was eagerly awaited and devoured!


12 plum tomatoes or 1 can stewed tomatoes

2 tbsp. yellow split pea (chana daal)

1 tsp. cumin seeds                                           

2 whole red chillies                                           

2 tsp. tamarind paste (or whole tamarind soaked in water overnight)

3 tsp. ground ginger (about 2 cloves minced)                                          

1 tsp. ground garlic (about 1" ginger minced)                                           

2 green chillies                                           

3-4 fresh curry leaves (kari pata)                                           

1/2 tsp. sesame seeds (til)
1 tsp. brown sugar                                           

3 eggs                                           

salt to taste                                           

                                                                                               

baghar:                                               

1/2 tsp. methi (fenugreek seeds)                                           

1/2 tsp. cumin seeds                                           

2-3 whole dried red chillies                                           

4 kari patta (fresh curry leaves)                                           

Preparation:                                               

- Soak the daal for 2 hours. Remove from water and allow to dry.


- In a dry pan, roast the daal, cumin seeds, whole chillies and sesame seeds till fragrant and the mixture darkens slightly (this should happen fairly quickly). Set aside.


Recipe:                                        
- If using whole tomatoes, blanch in a pot of boiling water and remove skin. Cook over medium heat in a little water till soft and mushy (water should be enough to result in a stew-like consistency). If using stewed tomatoes, skip to the step below. 

- In a saucepan, add the prepared spices, tamarind, ginger, garlic, green chillies, kari pata, salt and til to the tomatoes and cook on low-med heat for 30 minutes. Keep mashing while the mixture is simmering till a medium consistency is achieved.

- Separately, boil eggs. Once hard-boiled, set aside, let cool and then peel and divide into two parts.
- Make the baghar- Add oil to a pre-heated pan and immediately throw in the methi, zeera and red chillies. As they sizzle, add the kari pata (careful as this will sputter).

Let the mixture sizzle for another 30 seconds and then pour over the tomatoes and cover immediately and let sit for 2-3 minutes.
- Uncover and decorate egg halves in the kat and serve.